Spring All Around

Well, I heard all about how spring has arrived in the northeast corridor of the US, and indeed she found her way to Bologna as well. It is to hit the high 60s this week and it is hard to believe we had a snowstorm two weeks ago. Finally Ray can spend some time playing outside after school, though daylight savings time won't arrive here until this weekend. (Here he is on the balloon slide at Giardini Margherita, in the white socks.)

Andrea left yesterday for his long stint in the US. He is in Philadelphia today, then to North Carolina tonight and then off to Indiana for the weekend. He has to come back to Charlotte to go back through Frankfurt to then return to Bologna next week. Agh. These trips are becoming more torturous, and he was pulled aside by customs in Philly to be questioned about applying for a green card in 2005 (hum, we just had a baby in Bologna so highly unlikely. And his name here is as common as John Smith in the US.).

I am more excited than Ray that we got a hamster on Saturday. Almablu (Ray's insisted on this made up name) is very cute and I held him tonight for the first time. Trying to teach Ray patience and all that jazz, when I am the one waking at 4 to go take a peek at him on the wheel and insisting we wake him in the day to see if he is hungry. I will post a couple of photos tomorrow.

Here are some more landscape photos of Tuscany for Paula, since my last one set her imagination on fire. The church is in Assisi - of my favorite Saint Francis. And the "For Rent" sign above is for a place in that little town you liked.

Snow again

Mother Nature's (hopefully) last laugh came last week - the upsides are that the motorbikes were moved by the firemen, Ray was able to have his best friend over to play, and blood oranges are especially delicious these days and make the best juice.

Tuscan Winter

http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/03/07/travel/07tuscany.html?em

If you go: contact Chris and she will pick you up at the Florence or Bologna airport.

We went through Tuscany at the end of 2009 and it was really lovely. I know I posted about the trip previously, but this made me want to reemphasize that visiting Italy in the winter definitely has its benefits. In Cortona, the ticket seller at the museum told us that in the summer he sells more than 2000 tickets a day and these days he sells maybe 40- the baths at the terme we visited for the day in December were pleasantly full - enough to pick up a conversation with a neighbor but also do some laps if you are so inclined (and even I was). It was lovely not to have to battle the crowds.

I also recall that visits to Florence in the summer were hell and I experienced claustraphobia for the first time. However, a visit there one week before Christmas got me striding through the ticket booth at the Uffizi museum solo, while in the summer there can be a thousand people waiting in line.

I feel as though I am trying to sell a visit to friends and family. I am just so happy that after July, I can be a true host.










(Actually, looking back, I see I never posted about the trip. The place we stayed at was beautiful and we look forward to a return visit. The New Year with friends in the Marche was really really nice, even though James sniffed the wine a little too intimately.)

Blessing

The devil sat on my shoulder tonight. The front doorbell rang and I sent Ray out to see who it was - our house is such that we have an independent entrance, but the gate on the street is shared by three residences (the people who live above us and those below) and Ray can stick his head out the door to see who is there at the street. He came in and said it wasn't Daddy, so I ran out wiping my hands as I was cooking at the stove. A man stood there at the gate and identified himself as Don Carlo so-and-so and I looked puzzled as he spoke as if I should know him. To make a long story short - he is the local priest and I remembered that we had gotten a notice that this week the homes were to be blessed for Easter. He realized I wasn't Italian and after some fumbling of words, I told him "io non capisco bene" (I don't understand very well (this tradition)) and he said "me too" and we shook hands for the second time and he said "God bless you". The weird thing was that I realized I was almost flirting with him as he was young, handsome and with a great smile. The minutes following, back at the stove, I found myself thinking maybe I need to start taking Ray to mass every Sunday...and of course there is confession....and, yes, all those volunteer opportunities....oh naughty, I think I am breaking a commandment.

Moving Residences

I was happy to read this article in today's NYTimes: http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/28/realestate/28cov.html?pagewanted=1&hpw

I often wondered why I enjoy moving homes when most people I know dread it. I know it stems from the early years of moving to and from Japan every three years, but having had seven addresses in the past eight years makes me think that it has to go deeper than that. Even though we are moving this July to our fourth residence in Bologna (in 6.5 years), I find I am still picking up real estate magazines and scouring what is on the market. I have no real desire to be in the business, though I do love tearing out ads and passing information to anyone I know looking for a new home.

I can just say that the thought of moving into a new area, neighborhood, country - whatever the case may be - I have a heightened sense of excitement, anticipation, self-reliance in finding that new market, restaurant, home goods shop, butcher, coffee shop. I feel like an explorer looking to set some new challenges. Unveiling the culture and interest in local architecture also makes me want to walk unknown streets and getting lost just makes me learn the way better. Oddly enough, I never think of moving in terms of loss or leaving something behind but only in terms of something to be gained.

Anyway, I am anticipating the time I will spend on the hiking trails on the mountain that run just off our new property, where I hope to find a local who can teach me how to hunt for truffles and gather walnuts from the craggy trees. Also, I heard the butcher in our new town is reknowned in the area, and the famous "bread trail" runs through the area - where the century old mills are valued and bread still made the old fashioned way. I can't wait to become a regular at the yet-to-be-discovered garden shop, as well as the local forno (bread shop). Also, to try our new local restaurant - just a mile from home - can't wait to walk the trail that takes us right to it! http://www.la-capannina.com/

(These photos are from a few of the places we lived here in Bologna, including a front door, religious celebrations viewed from two different residences, and unpacking two moves ago. Okay, I never lived in Venice.)

A day at the beach

We went to the beach on the Adriatic Sea yesterday. It was so warm and sunny in Bologna that we wanted to get out of Dodge, but didn't count on how windy and cold it would be by the sea. But it was nice to be out in the air, and we saw some nice cars in Milano Marittima - the coolest place to hang out if you want to be seen. Italian men love their fast cars, and the women their high heels. This trio was walking towards the sand dunes and I don't know how they were going to manage on those kickers.

We stopped at a Fiat dealer on the way home since we will have to buy a second car with 4 wheel drive to commute from our new house. We will buy a small model, a Panda, that barely holds four bodies but will make it down our driveway next winter. Even at the dealership, they have model vehicles so that the next generation has something to strive for...

World Nutella Day 2010

http://www.msadventuresinitaly.com/blog/

This is for Marsha and her giant jar of authentic, Italian Nutella!

(Okay, the photo isn't of Nutella but that is some serious hand-made (and seriously man-handled) tagliatelle and ragu - at that agriturismo you know of.)

Geezz, time flies when it snows

It has been a dreadful winter in Bologna. Snow every week, cold, 100% humidity. Chilled to the bones. But on one rare sunny day, all the snow melted and we could take Ray to the gardens to ride his scooter.

I can't believe it is almost two months since I have posted, but will do so when I am off next week. In the meantime, here is one of Andrea's student's blog. I get an honorable mention on the February 1 posting, though it is my father who is of Union stock.

http://www.marcbologna.blogspot.com/

Merry Christmas Everyone!

I miss you all a lot. Thinking of the memories of Christmas' past and feeling a bit sad, but grateful to have them and for Ray who makes new ones for me.

We are heading out on the 27th, Andrea's 50th birthday, to the termes in Tuscany. We are staying at an old palace (http://www.palazzobizzarri.it/ - love the English translation on their homepage-cute) for two nights and visiting the hot springs nearby where one can take advantage of naturally warm, sulfer baths from the nearby volcano (I suppose - I have to read up on that one). We will then head over to lower Tuscany and then arrive in time to celebrate New Year's Eve with the Hoddell's at their house in the Marche. We decided, with all the stress over housing recently, to not try and push our way down to Puglia at this time, but perhaps over Easter vacation.

It is 7.30 Christmas morning and Ray has yet to wake. I better write that note from Santa before he does so, telling him to continue to be a good boy and especially to listen to his mother and give her lots of hugs. Merry Christmas everyone. Lots of love for the New Year!

The House is Ours!

Christmas came a day early this year.

So far so good - the owner of the mountain house signed our offer this morning and if all goes well, we should move in this summer. I didn't want to get excited knowing how things can fall through, but he was a very nice, older man and was only a little disgruntled about accepting our low offer. I told him that I love old houses and that we had looked at so many, and this one was particularly well done (he replied, "I know") so at least he knows I appreciate the work and planning he put into it. He also agreed to leave the curtains covering the lower spaces in the kitchen so that is one less thing I have to worry about. Ray will finally get his sprinkler and blow up pool this summer. The owner also said there are wolves, deer and even a falcon nest in the backwoods. A hike, anyone?

Christmas time

We made an offer on the house and will have a reply by Tuesday. If it doesn't work out, we will go back to the original house we offered on as the owner has decided he is ready to let it go. I will keep you posted.

http://intransit.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/09/14/travel-deals-six-days-in-italy-including-air/#comments

Visit Florence and come visit me in 37 minutes by highspeed train Bologna-Florence, or I will come and see you. (OK, so this article is outdated but maybe prices are even lower now. Nice Christmas present!)

Snow has hit Bologna big-time and the cold temps are hindering any melting. I am making stinco today (pork shanks slow-cooked in wine with herbs - love the name) and Christmas cookies. We have yet to dig out the car but will try to take a ride for some air this afternoon. Here are some photos I took yesterday. Nice view from our window.

Godfather Alberto came to visit us from Providence last weekend. He will stay with his family in Rimini over Christmas then return to Esther and baby Giocamo the days after. We have yet to plan our trip to the Puglia region. We will probably just take off and go where the warmer winds blow us.

http://intransit.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/11/05/riding-the-roads-as-the-romans-do/#more-17491

I have to add this article on renting a scooter in Rome. A real risk but what a blast.

December, lovely December

It has been a long time between posts these months. Hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving. We celebrated with Andrea's students and several professors at a nice restaurant that makes the turkey with all the trimmings. I took a ton of photos which Andrea failed to download before clearing my camera disk and I am sorry I have nothing to show of it.

I am exhausted on the house search. We found a lovely place on a mountain that we really like, but we hash over the commute to Bologna and Ray's future schools. But the price, since we expressed interest, has come down almost 30% so it is a tempting choice. However, the offer we made on the house a while back has resurfaced but in the form of a four year rental contract with then possible option to buy (while the owner tries on a new life in Milan with mistress and baby) which initially sounded awful to me, but the offered flexibility has now made me think it is not a bad idea. But I am a little gun-shy of this guy since he backed out an hour before on the signing the original contract ...

Anyway, we are all fine and preparing for Santa. One week left of work at school, the off for three weeks. Wish we were planning to visit the US but instead we will take off for a trip to the Puglia region to celebrate Andrea's 50th. Woohoo! Here are some house photos of the mountain home,with friends Philippa and the girls, in a village called Tra Sasso (translates to "between stoney hills"), and my favorite elf.

(The house is a renovated barn and the brick columns are the original area where the cows were kept - it is now a kitchen with sitting area, and the loft upstairs has original beams. It really is quite unique though it still only has 1.5 baths and the two loft bedrooms would have to be walled in (or curtained, or glassed)- there is another bedroom we would use as Ray's. The views are beautiful and the closest town, Monzuno, is quaint. Oh yes, a photo of Ray with the Monzuno Santa - he was a sad sack who then got teased by the local dudes. That is spiced wine in the copper lined barrel - vin brulè -a yummy treat this time of year.)

When I posted this photo from a chestnut festival last month, I commented to my sister that it was unfortunate that I didn't realize how cute this guy (the one on the left) was when I snapped his photo, and I only noticed after downloading it at home. Well, Paula thought he looked familiar, and here is where she saw him before.

So the deal with the house offer - we made it, it was accepted, then an hour before signing the goon pulled it off the market. So today we are going to look at another place, and have a few more lined up for the coming week. We have decided to refocus and concentrate on finding an independent house, which means it could be a bit isolated, but we will cross that bridge if and when we come to it.

Last weekend we saw the Bologna "basket" team, Virtus, play (they don't call it basketBALL here) and had the opportunity to see up close and personal the owner of the opposing team - Giorgio Armani - who is looking quite elderly and frail. The players for teams in Italy are often recruited from the US, so their kids end up going to English speaking schools so we, the staff, often get to know them quite well. I wonder if the players on GA's team dress better than others?

On a boring note, we have all been incredibly sick - I really think the swine flu swept through our house. Quite a few people in Bologna have been diagnosed with it and there is really nothing one can do except treat it like any other flu - as long as I don't start oinking.

We are gearing up for our formal Thanksgiving dinner at a local restaurant. The students will attend and a number of special guests. This year I will leave Ray home with Nonna so I can sit and have an adult evening. I just hope none of the students start getting homesick and break down crying. Thanksgiving seems to be the most family-focused holiday so it can be difficult. Even for me.

Advice on moving to Italy

Before I made the big move, I received some advice from an expat living here. I just found it on my computer and thought it might be helpful even if you plan to come for just a visit.

You have so little time to learn all the info you need to come on over....be prepared.

1. there are no clothes dryers
2. get used to wearing clothes more than once before washing
3. you can buy 100% cotton nothing shrinks here
4. Olive oil goes on all food, no salt – that is used in cooking
5. Pasta is served before the main dish and salad is last
6. Use a cell phone all the time (including playing with all the sounds it makes) in public = cool.
7. look to the right and left before crossing, and even behind you cuz you never know where the cars are coming from or at.
8. Find where all the americans hang out, irish pubs are, and xpats...because you will miss BSing.
9. Learn how to cut in line before the italians do.
10. Say "Non parlo Italiano" all day till you learn it.
11. Hand towels are used after you wash your ass and not to dry your hands and face.
12. Your DVD and VCR do not work here buy it when you come.
13. Teaching english is what you will do till you get tired of it.
14. Walking more than you have to because the bus you planned to take is too packed to get on.


That should be enough for now....if I think of anything else I will let you know....Maybe someone can add more to it.

Don't think that what I wrote is negative and trying to get you not to come......Remember that Italy is a better place to live than the USA!

Italy vs. USA

1. If you are robbed you will not know about it here till you get home. Beats getting bashed in the head for your wallet or have a gun pointed at you.

2. You can walk the street late and will not get harassed by some bum...he will only ask for money

3. Italian men do not beat their wives if unhappy, or divorce them. They find a lover that makes them happy.

anything else?

Daniele

Before I started working at the International School, I studied for a TEFL certificate (teaching English as a Foreign Language) and then taught English privately for a couple of years. It is a great thing to do when you have a tiny baby at home who sleeps a lot, but it is really stressful in that the preparation takes a lot of effort so the high fee one can charge per hour isn't so great once you add in travel time and missed appointments (and I didn't have my Vespa in those days). But you meet and get to know very well many Italians and I made some nice friends along the way. Anyway, one of my favorite students was Daniele. He wanted to learn an American accent to prepare for his launch in Hollywood where he enrolled in acting school and we would spent hours reading over movie scripts. Fortunately, not "Streetcar...". Here is his website -

http://www.danieleguidi.com/Daniele_Guidi_Website/Home_Page_1_Eng.html