Gosh, how do I even begin to describe seven weeks in the US after a 3+ year absence except that I returned to Italy revived by familial nurturing and the love of old friends. Ray and I had spent one week in Manhattan, then off to Bordentown for a bit before spending the next three weeks in scenic Montana. Ten days back in New Jersey prepared us for the heat and humidity we returned to in Bologna. We didn't have much time here before Andrea's students arrived last week, and I returned to work at the International School.








I can post photos which would best describe the time we had, though I have to admit that Facebook became a main source of communication in the US though I haven't spent much time on there from here. So if you haven't already seen some photos on my facepage, here is a sampling:









It was nice to be have dinner and stay over night in the lovely, rustic home of Marsha and Greg in Lebanon (except for the french wine, their counter top could be anywhere in Italy!) and also have dinner with good friends hosted by Susan in Princeton (above). Ray enjoyed the American food and I indulged myself the first week then went healthy the last six, though the 15 pounds I lost are slowly creeping back.

While I was away, Andrea served as translator for American poet Jack Hirschman, who came to Lugo to present his book. An old social activist, he wasn't on the good side of any anti-communists here, but the evening pulled through pretty well. (Their expressions are puzzling, eh?)

In the meanwhile, Ray really misses the 14 hours a day of the grass of suburbia and the trees of Montana, so we are back again at looking at homes outside of Bologna. Here is my latest flavor of the month in real estate - we may put our apartment up for sale soon. We will decide in the coming days.

Thank you thank you thank you for all the attention - the time you spent on making my visit special: the tube of my new, favorite lipstick on the bedside table, the Ipod Touch, the meals, the diners and American coffee, rehashing of memories, the crabcakes and wine, the campfires and American breakfasts. For playing with Ray and for meeting me in New York. Buying me the big, fat sequel written in English and Pop Tarts, the rides to and from airports and everywhere else, the surprise photo album stashed into my carry-on and a grand dose of American music. For not asking me to "say something in Italian." The drive through the mountains of Montana and the mountains of love and the great big good-bye hugs. You can't begin to know how much it all means to me.

Marche Weekend

We were invited to the Hoddell's house in the Marche for the weekend. It was very nice to spend a chunk of time with my closest friends here - Philippa, Harriet and Sogand (I got a lot of tea and sympathy about the ruin, as well as prosecco and a negroni). It was a mix of rain and plain, old overcast sky, but the sun finally broke out on Sunday afternoon. We had left just after lunch so we didn't get to swim, but I heard the pool was pretty warm. We did spend the time learning backgammon and foosball, and Ray got to hang out with his "Italian cousins" - well, as close as they all can get to having some!

We took the long way home and passed "the Rock" of San Leo - a castle built on a stone hilltop. It is much more impressiveto see in person.

I hope I can post again before Ray and I leave for the US next week. It seemed so distant but these recent weeks have gone by much too fast. Still, I am so psyched to see everyone....

Spilt Beans

Well, the beans got spilled in the comments. I was going to wait until I felt better to post that the ruin, when we called to begin the offer process, had been sold one month before to someone else. We had just spent a half a day on the property with a picnic and the blueprints (and later wading in a nearby river), so you can imagine my disappointment (then multiply it by 1000). I'll get over it, but it will take a while.

Here is a photo of Ray and Andea playing on the church property - hummmm, didn't I mention once that was going up for sale in the future...?

June in the Middle

I realized today that I have been writing on this blog just over a year. In many ways, it feels almost ridiculous to throw out in cyberspace such mundane information about one's life. On the other hand, it has kept family and friends up to date and saves a lot of "touching base" even to just make certain I am still alive and well. So if you can put up with me, I will continue to write and you have no obligation to read (when Paula and Susan stop posting comments, I know it is time to drop the curtain).

Ray continues to be Spiderman (can you spot him at this recent birthday party?), Andrea is in Rome at the moment attending a conference, and I am winding down the school year at the International School. Andrea and I have been toying with the idea of really buying the ruin, and I am really hoping we will move forward on it before I leave for the US. Mortgage rates are historically low now and there doesn't seem to be a good reason not to go for it. I think I want it badly enough for both of us at this point, and had the nerve to finally show Andrea all my sketches of the floor plan including furniture (and even sink taps) as well as the garden layout. Imagining having this place has helped me cope with living in a small space in Bologna where I can't invite those closest to me to stay, and this house will give me that option. In addition, I will get a lot of exercise working in the terra surrounding it, and hopefully get rid of my new flabby, flapping upper arms. But again, we shall have to see. (Are you sick of this topic?)

My US trip is coming up quickly. Can't wait to see everyone. A visit to the city, the Hooks and others are lined up. Can we swing a PU reunion on the 10th, Suziq?

Pietro Frassica came to Bologna from Princeton to attend a conference in Italian studies, and we stopped at his hotel to see him. He was Andrea's best man at our wedding, and he is doing very well. You can tell that Ray had just received a gift from him.

Ray's 4th birthday came and went with just a small celebration with Nonna and a spiderman cake. He is growing up so fast and it is so fun to watch him dress himself, brush his teeth, etc. and in addition, anything I do (such as unlocking our front gate) that he intended to do has to be repeated so that he can do it (whew, makes for tedious days sometimes but pazienza).

We went back to the agriturismo to celebrate our 6th anniversary on May 24th. It was just as lovely as it was two weeks earlier. Franco, the owner, though covered in green grass as he was weed wacking when we got there, took us off immediately in his serious off-road Range Rover to show us around his property and then to two abandoned housese that are for sale. This pink one is enormous and has ten acres for €100k (or $142k). Franco has 40 acres of mixed woodland and fields and the week before had taken on two mares and their foals for boarding. We went to visit the Dream House and then hiked down to an abandoned house which is the one that initially got us exploring that area. This particular ruin (the first photo) is on the hillside in a stunning position and is more beautiful than I expected. But it needs not only major work (there are huge gaps in the roof) but the driveway is a half mile long and no doubt it needs electric run to it. Anyway....enough about the abandoned farms of Italy...

Ray had his little school celebration among a slew of birthday parties to attend. Here he is with his best friends Davide and Francesco. We have been out a lot as well - here are some photos of recent events, including a lovely crescentina with prosciutto eaten at a recent festival and one of Giro Italia - the Italian bike race that Lance Armstrong participated in for the first time. Here is a photo I caught of the head group - the second and main group were more than two minutes behind. we stopped in a small town where there were about 20 people waiting for the race to go by. I don't know why but one can't help but shout out when they fly by!

I am gearing up to begin packing for our long summer in the US. Mom and Keiko will pick Ray and I up on at JFK and we will stay in Manhattan until the 4th of July when we head to Bordentown. The I will shuffle between there and NYC until Ray, Mom and I depart for Montana on the 16th. Can't wait to see everyone and head over to Princeton for some of the old haunts.

Marsha and Greg

Marsha and Greg, friends from NJ, came to visit us for five days. Marsha and I both worked at PrincetonU and we socialized regularly, but I hadn't seen them for several years so it was a treat to spend so much time together. Marsha and I celebrated our birthdays - hers in Bologna (we are pictured here having an aperitivo) and mine two days later at a gorgeous agriturismo near the Dreamhouse (www.marzanella.it/ - we are going there this again this weekend to celebrate our 6th). We also went to stay at the Hoddell's house in Borgo Pace for one night. Though the Marche region is really beautiful, Greg was very nice to say that the place we discovered (where the Dreamhouse is) was spectacular. Here we are on the trail that runs on the property.

Ray found a new playmate in Greg, and here he is in his best spiderman pose and Greg as "that other guy" wearing his best swordsman face.


We were able to meet with James and Philippa and their three girls for a picnic in the Bologna hills. The kids had fun running around, but poor Cressida fell and scraped the side of her face.

It has been a long time since I had visitors from home. I really appreciate their coming to see me. Please come back soon. xo

They don't even come close to Hunterdon County...

One of the most beautiful counties of NJ. The fox hunts - the master of the hounds blowing the brass in his red jacket, the dogs and the riders on horseback - coming around the corner of a trail to see this pass by was extraordinary (though I admit I could never support the lynching of a live fox...).

http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/05/08/travel/escapes/08njhike.html?hpw

I found this article in this week's NYT:
http://travel.nytimes.com/2006/12/08/travel/escapes/08adventurer.html?pagewanted=1

He got in!

I am thrilled to find out on-line (just a few minutes ago) that Ray's application has been accepted for a school transfer. Last year he was not admitted to the Montessori school across the road from us, but they have accepted him this year. This not only means we can now walk him to school, but that he will be in class with some of his friends and learning through the Montessori method. I think this will suit his personality much better and he will be more enthusiastic. I am really happy.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montessori

April showers - basta!

I promise to post the Vienna photos this week. Andrea downloaded them on an external drive so I have to get around to connecting it to my computer to access them. I am also having problems downloading in general - the site, I think, so here are the only three that were able to come through. Will try again this afternoon.


This past Saturday, it was so beautiful out that we went on a hillside picnic. Fortunately, as we lack a garden (or yard, as they say in NJ), Bologna provides a lot of open green space in the hills surrounding the southern part of the city. We live on the first hill outside the center, so it takes only about 5 minutes in the car to reach some lovely, public yet private areas where we can spread a blanket and have some spectacular views.








(I am glad Andrea is not looking at me with that queer look on his face.)

We also have the little field at the end of our street where I took Ray last week, but the farmer was there that day (he actually lives on our street and is probably a retired lawyer or something who works this piece of land for fun) and told me that what we were told when we moved here - that he welcomed locals to use his hillside- was far from true. If it wasn't for the legal responsibilities he held, he wouldn't mind but he has this big, fat, sweet dalmation that he lets run around and a dog is a dog, however you want to put it, and kids can be annoying to even the sweetest of them.

A good friend, Kathryn Purdy, came for a surprise visit to see the old gang last week. We were all together for a kid birthday party when she walked into the room. She was in Bologna for a few years but now lives in California, so we were really shocked to see her. Kathryn does some interesting work - I keep trying to uncover her secrets for the weight loss program, but she laughs at me. Here is her website, and, as you can see, Ray acting a little flirty around her. http://www.katherinepurdy.com/

Kathryn has two daughters - their father is Chinese American and when we used to go out and around Bologna, people thought I was the girls' mother and Kathryn was Ray's mother (one daughter in particular really was a mini-me). When Kathryn was out with her girls alone, people asked her if she was their nanny. When I was out alone with Ray, I was asked if I was his nanny - we just couldn't win.

Vienna

We are just back from 6 days in Vienna - an amazing city. I will write about it and post a lot of photos as soon as possible.

Earthquake in Abruzzo Region

April 6, 2009
This Warden Message is being issued to alert U.S. citizens to the earthquake in central Italy on April 6, 2009.
A 6.3-magnitude earthquake occurred in central Italy at 3:32 a.m. local time (1:32 a.m. GMT) on April 6, 2009. The epicenter of the earthquake was 60 miles northeast of Rome in the region of Abruzzo. Damage from the earthquake is concentrated around the city of L'Aquila, the capital of the Abruzzo region, as well as other small towns near L’Aquila in Abruzzo.
According to media reports, the earthquake has disrupted electricity, phone service, and other utilities. Widespread damage to buildings is reported in and around L’Aquila. Italian civil protection authorities have requested that people avoid traveling to the L’Aquila area. Americans should strongly consider deferring any travel plans to the area affected by the earthquake. Americans traveling in Italy should also consider contacting family in the U.S. to let family members know they are unharmed. U.S. citizens traveling to or through Italy are encouraged to follow post-earthquake developments in the media.


The footage in t.v. is just awful. Somehow, that this is the week leading into Easter makes it all the more devastating. Having visited so many medieval hilltop towns in Italy, I visualize the ancient piazzas full of old men leaning on their canes and chatting - the women hovering near their doorways, often knitting or snapping the ends off green beans as they gossip. That this hit when they were all sleeping in their beds seems like a curse or a blessing. Watching one of those old men being interviewed this morning while waiting to be reunited with his son, then filmed walking aimlessly and crying later in the afternoon coverage when the reunion still hadn't happened was heartbreaking. I don't know how a town begins to recover.

Apparently, there was an earlier quake 35 miles south of Bologna late last evening, but I didn't feel it.
Update: Andrea's mom felt the earthquake in Lugo and she said that her hanging light fixture was swaying quite a bit. Maybe it was those two beers that stole that experience from me. ha.

Ensure

God, how I remember those cans of Ensure from 20 years ago...

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/05/fashion/05love.html?pagewanted=1&em

Dog loving and goings on

I haven't had a dog now for almost 6 years - after a lifetime of no less than two dogs at any one time. I hope that one day we will be in a home where I can manage one (or two).

http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/03/31/life-lessons-from-the-family-dog/?em

Andrea returns home on Monday after almost two weeks in the US. He has been a shopaholic - picking up odds and ends (q-tips, vanilla extract, bisquick, shampoos, Spiderman books in English) that are not available here. Fortunately, he took a soft suitcase inside his larger one and can stuff it since the international flights allow two bags. Two years ago the US postal service eliminated freight shipping and everything has to mailed first-class, so the care packages from family have dropped off as the shipping often costs more than the contents.

It has been tough getting Ray to school in the mornings so that I can be at work by 8:30. Especially since it rained (pouring, torrential, non-stopping) for nine days in a row. But I have to admit it was nice to hog all of his attention and needs to myself.

We pick up the Honda on Tuesday and then take off for Vienna through Easter. Unfortunately, Andrea's mother who has had her house for sale this past year just got an offer that has to be considered and she is talking about buying a small apartment in Bologna. Fortunately, we will have a lot of time to talk on our seven hour road trip to Austria. Her living nearby would be nice for Ray and she isn't the typical Italian mother-in-law. She is pretty hands-off but in any case, the obligations become greater. At the moment, she lives an hour away and we see her maybe twice a month.

Happy Easter to all: I hope the spring offers you a light heart and warm sunshine.

Art of Aperitivo

Here is an article that explains the aperitivo a bit more. The negroni mentioned is one of my favorite drinks. You can only have one though, if you plan to go out to dinner after...

http://frugaltraveler.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/03/18/in-milan-the-best-meal-deal-in-italy/?em

Spring has Sprung

Bologna is just beautiful these days. We have had day after day of sunshine and temps in the 60s. No one is wearing a coat any longer and I see some neighbors trying to catch their first tan lines of the season (the serious tanners stay brown all year with weekly visits to the salon. Andrea has one under his office and it is busybusybusy.). If I didn't mention it before, most Italians love their tans and it is a big deal here. It depicts good health....I think, until one turns 50 and looks 65. I take Ray's bike to the park when I pick him up from school, and he can ride around for an hour or so before coming home. Here are some pictures of Giardini Margherita where his school is. In the first photo, his school is the dark brown, low building on the right.

Last Friday I had my English co-workers over for an aperitivo which was fun. Ray had two new playmates to share toys with. Dillon is English/Italian and 2, while Ruby is English and one week older than Ray. The adults had a good time tasting some wines while analyzing the recent Manchester game, and admittedly are not as well versed in vino as their Italian counterparts so when Martin started drinking my cooking wine, I didn't try too hard to stop him. I may have them over again while Andrea is in the states, when I can partner the wine with some rice and curry (yum, you say? Beer might be better.).

The week before, James brought the three girls (here they are with Ray) over for dinner as Philippa had to go to London to see her ill mother. James was pretty desperate for something to do with the kids, so it was nice to have him here along with Krissy and Andrea. Krissy is an alumni of Andrea's program and now works for Furla. She promises to get me some sample bags for the new season at a discount. By the way, if you remember the JBrand deal I had, I did receive my JBrand jeans from LA. Pretty nice stuff, I must admit. Wearing them now.

Italians rely a lot on face-to-face communication. Andrea frequently has to go to an office to discuss something or make a transaction or just to learn of some news. When I ask why he can't do it over the phone or internet, he tries to explain how important it is to have a "personal relationship". This was evident when we bought the car. To the salesman, Andrea became "my friend the professor" to everyone who walked into the dealership and I became the "American wife". So it was no surprise that he was a little annoyed when he learned through the computer that we stopped in another dealership and as a result made things a little complicated by acting offended (and asking for more money). After understanding that we were more than willing to walk away from the deal, he couldn't get the car to us fast enough - the end of this month (originally we were to receive it in May). So we will have it in time for our trip to Vienna the week before Easter.

Here are some photos per Paula's request - Ray the painter, Ray as Spiderman and a recent sunrise. Andrea leaves for the US next week and I have my request in for a new camera so hopefully my pictures will be a little more sophisticated. The cost here is about double than in the US. Thanks to Ken for this Canon. As you can see, I have used it well these past five+ years.

email me

Dear Family and Friends,
Once again, Andrea has installed a new email program for me and didn't carry over my address book. Please send me an email from your account, so I can add you to my contacts list.
Many thanks,
Chris
(The photo is just to add some interest. It is hard to believe Ray was ever so tiny.)